Diners Club Winemaker of the Year

Since the establishment of the Diners Club Winemaker of the Year Awards in 1981, it has become one of the most important events on the local wine calendar. This year the well qualified panel of judges was chaired by Dave Hughes, who is widely regarded as one of South Africa’s most experienced and astute wine judges.
The category was Chardonnay, which remains to be the most popular white wine variety, worldwide. Although the first Chardonnay vines were only planted in South Africa less than three decades ago, the general quality of the wines entered was high and the panellists were impressed. Chablis expert, Michel Laroche of Burgundy, especially approved of the delicate use of oak in most of the 2005 vintages. Margaret Fundira, a sensory specialist, commented on the good balance achieved in most of the Chardonnays. Cathy van Zyl, South Africa’s first and only ‘home-grown’ resident UK Master of Wine, also remarked on the fine balance and well integrated oak, while Nederburg’s white winemaker, Tariro Masayati, was of the opinion that most of the entries had good maturation potential.
A total of 127 entries were received, of which 58, ranging from 2002 to 2006 vintages, made it past the first round. Thirteen wines were tasted in the final round and from these a short list was selected (all wooded versions) to feature among the illustrious Top 10.
In the 26-year history of the Diners Club Winemaker of the Year Awards, two victories prior to the 2006 award were achieved with a Chardonnay. In 1986, when the category was Wood-aged White, the late Sydney Back won with his 1985 Backsberg Chardonnay; 1993 saw Danie de Wet walking away with the title for his 1993 De Wetshof Finesse.
This year the coveted title went to Franschhoek winemaker, Gottfried Mocke, for his Chamonix Chardonnay Reserve 2005. Apart from a place on the roll of honour that includes some of the very best wine producers in the country over a period spanning a quarter of a century, Gottfried was also awarded a return flight to the wine-producing country of his choice and a cheque for R15 000.
Gottfried’s winning wine is described as: “Pale yellow with green tints. The nose opens with oatmeal, barley sugar and a touch of toast, followed by subtle tropical tones and light citrus notes in the background. On the palate it is fresh and full, with a fairly firm acidic backbone. Flavours of melon and cashew add to those suggested on the nose, while sweet, spicy oak lends gentle support. The wine is surprisingly complex considering its relative youth and shows loads of development potential.”
Another feather in Gottfried’s cap is that the Chamonix Chardonnay 2005 was the runner-up in this steep competition. Asked for the secret behind Chamonix’s Chardonnay success, Gottfried said, “One of the major contributing factors is that we rely on natural acid in the fruit and therefore pick at various levels of ripeness to get different acid levels. Thus a particular block of vineyard (and at Chamonix this includes a block of 23-year-old vines) can be harvested up to eight times.” Add to this Gottfried’s policy of allowing the Chardonnay to ferment naturally (malolactic fermentation included), lengthy lees contact and batonage, plus maturation for up to 14 months in new, 228-litre barrels from the Alliers forest in Burgundy – and it becomes clear that his is not an instant recipe for success.
But on to the Diners Club Young Winemaker of the Year Awards, which has been running since 2001 and is open to winemakers aged 30 years and younger. This year’s category was Dry Red Wines and the competition attracted 62 entries, comprising an interesting variety of blended and single varietal reds. According to Dave Hughes, who also acted as chairman of this judging panel, the vast majority of wines were of an excellent quality. This opinion was underscored by the overseas panellist, Michel Laroche from France, who expressed his surprise that the fine wines assessed by the panel had not been screened in advance.
The winner was Francois Agenbag with his 2004 Seven Oaks 6+1 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz. Francois created this blend at Mountain Ridge in the Wolseley, Breedekloof region and the wine triumphed on the basis of complexity and maturity. The comments included “powerful blackberry, chocolate with spicy oak backing” and “big, rich and full in the mouth with ripe, balanced tannins and well controlled oak”. Clearly this young wine-maker can look forward to a great future.
Excellent news for winemakers and wine lovers alike is the fact that Diners Club International is committed to continuing its encouragement of South African winemakers in their quest to produce fine wine of ever-increasing quality. Regarding the ‘main’ Diners Club Winemaker of the Year Awards, it has already been announced that the category for 2007 will be Shiraz and in 2008, White Blends. And already, I look forward to commenting on the results!