Lunch with Adam Mason, winemaker of Klein Constantia

I have recently acquired a mountain bike and when the day for my appointment with Adam Mason, Klein Constantia’s relatively “new kid on the block” dawned, I resolved to do the trip by bike. So up the steep mountain track that links our offices to this magnificent estate I pedalled. Resulting in a 40-minute trip, instead of the 7 minutes it would have taken by car! The stress on my calves was worth the effort. In fact, it was also excellent exercise for the mind: cycling through those glorious vineyards reminded me of just how beautiful the Constantia Valley is and set me wondering what it must have looked like when Governor Simon van der Stel, pioneer of the South African wine industry, planted the first vines here.

Still reflecting on those olden days, I arrived at Klein Constantia, today one of the country’s most trendsetting wineries. Where the inspired Adam Mason awaited, eager to show me the latest developments. Having sampled some of Adam’s most recent (and may I say, very impressive) vintages from the barrel, we set out for a bite to eat.

The local Greens Restaurant provided just the right ambience for a relaxed conversation. Sitting under the ancient oaks, sharing a simple, yet scrumptious pizza enhanced by a chilled bottle of Klein Constantia Mme Marlbrook – a white blend destined to become one of the estate’s flagships - I asked Adam about his career.

“I started off as a ‘flying winemaker’, working for Direct Wines. With Direct Wines being the world’s largest wine mail order company, this meant making wine all over France and parts of Spain and Italy. It was an exciting time in my life; not only could I gain valuable Old World experience, it also satisfied my desire to travel and experience these cultures.”

When in 2003 Lowell Jooste (owner of Klein Constantia) offered him the sought-after position of winemaker, Adam was delighted. And today he can see that this was meant to be. “Lowell and I see eye to eye on fundamental issues such as place and site. Ultimately, the winemaker is only the conduit between what the terroir delivers and what is tasted in the glass. I know this may sound like a cliché, but I honestly believe that it’s the vineyards that make the wine. And at Klein Constantia our vineyards are awesome.”

What has it been like to step into the shoes of his predecessor, the legendary Ross Gower? “A bit scary at first,” admitted Adam, “but also hugely challenging and exciting”. Asked about Vin de Constance, that icon wine that put Klein Constantia on the world map centuries ago, Adam said: “I really regard it a privilege to contribute my bit in upholding the proud reputation. But once again, it’s the sense of place, the terroir that shapes the soul of this great wine”.

Having said goodbye to this enthusiastic young winemaker, I reflected on how lucky I was to be part of our centuries-old, yet ever-evolving wine industry. In this instance, not only finding out how “the new kid on the block” was doing, but also to cement a long-standing relationship with Klein Constantia. An association which has always allowed me to source the finest and often most exclusive batches of wines from this world-renowned cellar.

ADAM IN A NUTSHELL

WHY AND WHEN DID YOU DECIDE TO BECOME A WINEMAKER?
As a schoolboy, I attempted making pumpkin wine in a cupboard. Not with great success, but I suppose it all started there.

YOUR FAVOURITE CULTIVAR?
If I had to pick a white, I would go for Riesling. When it comes to red, Cabernet Sauvignon is King.

YOUR FAVOURITE HOBBY?
At the moment it’s tinkering in the garden.

HAPPIEST MOMENT?
Probably when I first met Louise (my wife) at varsity. Right from the start, she was “The One”. And then the birth of our two daughters, Ella and Jesse.

WORST MOMENT?
I’m generally a happy chappie… except when the computer starts malfunctioning.