Lunch with Boela Gerber of Groot Constantia
When I woke up on Friday, the 1st of September, it was almost as if nature knew that it was time to awake from its slumber and make its presence felt after one of the wettest winters in recent years. As I made my way to our offices in the heart of Constantia Valley, it was difficult not to be blown away by the beauty of this valley.
Yes, it was going to be a good day. Not only to celebrate spring, but also to meet with Boela Gerber, custodian of the wines of South Africa’s oldest wine brand, Groot Constantia. Our lunch date was at Groot Constantia’s famous Simon’s Restaurant, but business before pleasure: I took the opportunity to get Boela’s technical take on a few wines we’re planning to buy for The Wine Society. So off we went to his laboratory tucked away in the Groot Constantia cellar. It is only when you spend time with a knowledgeable winemaker assessing wine in a clinical environment without the influence of labels, personalities and packaging that you get a true and accurate understanding of the quality of the wine.
My lunch with Boela turned out to be as enjoyable as it was informative. This charismatic, energetic winemaker was appointed at Groot Constantia in 2001 and immediately proved himself by being selected in 2002 as Diners Club Young Winemaker of the Year for his Merlot 2001. Over a super meal accompanied by a bottle of Groot Constantia Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (highly recommended) we discussed the future of the South African wine industry. “I think there are some phenomenal wines in this country,” is Boela’s opinion. “With all the new wines coming from established areas, as well as amazing wines from new areas, the quality at the top end is definitely getting better. Unfortunately there are still thousands of litres of shocking wines from areas where the producers either don’t give a damn about quality, or shouldn’t be allowed to grow grapes in the first place.”
Our conversation then shifted to one of Boela’s favourite topics: blending. “To me blending the red wines is the best time of the year. It’s putting the finishing touches on a project that you’ve been working on for years. With blending you can really bring out the best in each wine, adding complexity, finding balance and creating finesse. It’s very satisfying.” It is always good to hear an enthusiastic winemaker talking about his art and there’s no doubt that Boela is passionate about his. Indeed, the future of Groot Constantia’s wines is sound in the hands of this inspired and creative winemaker.
BOELA IN A NUTSHELL
Favourite pastimes?
Mountain biking, paddling and running. I recently got into adventure racing as well. That’s the best fun I’ve had with my clothes on for a very long time.
Most memorable moment?
It must have been the day I signed up at Groot Constantia six years ago. It is such a beautiful farm and the quality of the fruit is phenomenal. Everybody here is extremely passionate about the place, really working hard to make sure that Groot Constantia lives up to the reputation it has built over the past 320 years.
Is there anything you don’t like about your job?
The paperwork. All the red tape the bureaucrats invented to make sure winemaking is not the perfect job.
Any screw ups?
If you really are in pursuit of making the best wine, you have to push the boundaries and challenge existing ideas. It is inevitable that something will go wrong sometime. We’re not talking balsamic vinegar, just not quite the way you wanted it to turn out.