A Lunch Date With Hermann Kirschbaum

Buitenverwachting of course means “Beyond Expectation” and whoever named it so must have been clairvoyant because today this model wine farm certainly produces exceedingly good wines. I must admit to having a soft spot for Buitenverwachting; their gorgeous wines and stunning setting in the Constantia Valley being but some of the reasons. The place has soul … something intangible that I experience whenever I go there. And that’s quite often, seeing that it’s only a stone’s throw from The Wine Society’s headquarters.

The estate of course also boasts a world-class restaurant (among its many accolades, a Fleur du Cap award) where I recently had the pleasure of lunching with the maestro himself. Since joining Buitenverwachting in 1993 Hermann Kirschbaum’s iron-willed determination to achieve his wine quality goals has taken the estate right to the top - not only of Cape wineries, but the wineries of the world. In 2004 it was listed among Wine Spectator’s 50 top wine producers of the world. Yet Hermann remains unassuming and humble, ascribing this success to “team effort”.

That there is a wonderful team spirit at Buitenverwachting cannot be denied. And in this spirit the affable general manager, Lars Maack and entertaining assistant-winemaker, Brad Paton, joined us at lunch. Wine is not only these guys’ profession it is also their lifestyle and therefore no lunch before we tasted through a magnificent line-up of Sauvignon Blanc. Which served to highlight what a great product the Buiten Blanc (80% Sauvignon Blanc) is and why it has become such a success story, now selling 50 000 cases per year.

Before I wax lyrical about the meal, let me briefly describe the ambience in which it was enjoyed. While the interior of the restaurant can be termed posh and formal, it is also relaxed and welcoming. From where we sat on the enclosed patio we had the most astounding views of the rolling vineyards with Constantiaberg in the background. What better surroundings to chat about our mutual passion: wine.

I selected chef Edgar Osjonik’s beef fillet in a marrow crust as a starter, which with a glass of 2003 Zandvliet Shiraz on the side was, well … out of this world! Hermann and I exchanged golf handicaps, making me realise that this man cannot only make wine - he’s also not bad at hitting a ball. Come the main course and we were back on the topic of wine. Between succulent bites of roast monkfish, accompanied by Buitenverwachting’s famous Rhine Riesling, I probed Hermann about his winemaking philosophy. But all this modest man would say is: “We’re sticking to our guns, making classic wines best suited to our terroir”. All I can say to that is: a class act indeed!

HERMANN IN A NUTSHELL

When and where were you born? The 22nd of May 1953 at Worcester. My mother told me it was a lovely moonlit night.

Favourite colour? Blue. It’s such a moody colour. A bright blue sky is an indication that it’s a wonderful day. The sea is blue. I love the sea. Blue is easy, I also love my jeans.

Favourite person? My boss, Lars Maack. He gives me enough rope to hang myself … Seriously, he leaves the winemaking up to me and I know that if I mess up, I’m gone. I like that type of pressure.

What would you be doing if you were not a winemaker? If I had the talent, a professional golfer or a composer or an artist.

Your greatest inspiration? Nature for its sheer practical perfection and beauty.

RECIPE
PAN-FRIED KINGKLIP FILLET GLAZED WITH VERJUS,
SET IN SAFFRONATED LEEK-TOMATO COULIS
WITH CREAMY VEGETABLE LINGUINE

Superb with the 2004 Buitenverwachting Rhine Riesling in your pack.

180 g Kingklip
4 tbsp Tomato Coulis
3 tbsp Leek Saffron Coulis

Vegetable Linguine

40 g Plain Linguine
10 g Long Carrot Julienne
10 g Long Zucchini Julienne
10 g Long Celery Julienne

Toss vegetables in a pan and cook with fish sauce and whipped cream for 30 seconds. Add the cooked pasta and cook for a further 30 seconds. Roll pasta neatly, place in a ring on the plate and spoon remaining sauce over.

Garnish

1 Tomato Chip
1 Deep-fried Basil Chip