Lunch with Richard Kershaw of Kanu
Having witnessed many a winery and many a brand rising from zero to top of the pops during my involvement in the Cape Wine Industry over the past 15 years, I suppose I could be excused for believing in a certain amount of ‘wine magic’. In this case the supernatural powers of Kanu, a mythical bird of promise which according to legend blesses all those falling under its shadow with a bountiful harvest. Well, since the establishment of Kanu Wines in 1998, this Stellenbosch winery has certainly flourished …
But myth aside. I recently had the pleasure of lunching with Kanu’s brilliant winemaker, Richard Kershaw. The venue was Toerie van der Merwe’s hip and highly rated Umami Restaurant in the heart of Stellenbosch, where a superb dining experience created the ideal ambience for a relaxed, yet stimulating conversation.
Chatting to Richard I once again realised the importance of what I call the ‘X-factor’ - that special, undefined something that sets a truly passionate winemaker apart from the rest. Born and bred in Sheffield, England, Richard initially qualified as a chef. However, “surrounded by the magic combination of fine food and fine wine, I started feeling the urge to discover the mysteries of winemaking,” tells Richard. “I decided that it was not enough for me just to imbibe. I wanted to work with wine, discovering the whole process behind the creation of a good wine, just as I understood the business of cooking.”
In search of this goal, Richard gained practical experience working back-to-back vintages in Chile and Bordeaux during 1996. Formal studies also began in earnest and 1997 and 1998 saw him working as assistant winemaker at Weingut Herrenhof in Germany and The Royal Tokaji Wine Co. in Hungary. In 1999 Richard was appointed as assistant winemaker at one of South Africa’s most prominent wine estates, Mulderbosch. “This was a real breakthrough,” says Richard and relates in glowing terms how Mulderbosch winemaker, Mike Dobrovic, encouraged him to further his studies.
When in 2003 the winemaking position at Mulderbosch’s sister winery, Kanu, became vacant, there was no doubt in CEO Ben Truter’s mind as to who would comfortably fit into the role. And since Richard’s appointment, his determination for entrenching the winery’s reputation as one of the leading producers of world-class wines has been crowned with glittering star ratings and numerous awards.
Over our main course, a beautifully prepared kingklip perfectly paired with a glass of 2006 Kanu Chenin, I ask Richard one of my stock questions: Where are South African wines going? His reply is frank and to the point. “Personally, I think SA wines have at times lost the plot, certainly in the marketing areas. While the Aussies and Chileans (who will probably overtake imports into the UK by year end) are like marathon runners, we end up by being a tannie watching them race by. We want to be all things to all people yet also try to be unique. There is Barossa Shiraz, Casablanca Sauvignon Blanc and then Paarl Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay, Chenin, Shiraz, Riesling, Pinotage, etcetera. You get the picture … and then you add Biodiversity and then you bang the Pinotage drum. This is all too complicated for the man on the street. What they require is clear and understandable styles.”
Strong words from a man, who, when asked to name his most memorable moment, rather dreamily replies: “Each moment is memorable; reminding us that we live in a magical mystical world and life will conspire to aid us on our way …”
WADE BALES