Lunch with Mike Dobrovic from Mulderbosch
“God’s creation is vast, why do you sit all day in a tiny prison?”
This is but one of the many quotes from the 13th century mystic, Rumi, that Mike Dobrovic has up his sleeve and loves to recite. But then this inimitable winemaker of Mulderbosch fame is something of a latter-day philosopher himself.
I have followed Mike’s career at Mulderbosch since 1989, when he joined forces with owner Larry Jacobs to upgrade this then derelict Stellenbosch farm. When some ten years later Larry sold Mulderbosch to Hydro Holdings, Mike’s dedicated input and exceptional talents had already established Mulderbosch as one of South Africa’s most sought-after wine ranges. Since then many a prestigious local and international accolade has positioned Mulderbosch in the upper echelons of the world’s wine hierarchy, with Mike earning among others, the title of South Africa’s “Mr Sauvignon Blanc”. Today Mike is a director of Hydro Holdings and recently he and his wife, Alice purchased a 16-ha farm in the cool Elgin area, where the guiding principle is to “keep things simple, small and fun”.
Our lunch appointment was at Terroir on the picturesque Kleine Zalze near Stellenbosch, which was recently selected by Eat Out magazine as one of the country’s Top Ten Restaurants. Mike arrived not only with a bottle of Mike Dobrovic Chardonnay and Mulderbosch Shiraz under his arm, but also his trademark pack of Rumi teachings. These he liberally dished out to everyone within striking distance.
From the word go it was clear that Mike was not going to boast about his achievements. So over the delicious duck pancake starter, complemented by Mike’s gorgeous Chardonnay, I asked him what he does when not making wine. “My wife finds many jobs for me to do. If I can escape, I read or work in the garden. One of my passions is planting indigenous trees. We are also trying to preserve a large area on Mulderbosch for Renosterveld. So as a weekend sport I kill aliens. George Bush would be proud of me!”
The Mulderbosch Shiraz was a perfect match to chef Nic van Wyk’s famous lamb shank with risotto and our conversation drifted to the future of the South African wine industry. “I’ve seen an incredible improvement in local wine over the past 25 years,” is Mike’s opinion. “Each farm’s challenges are unique. Our strength lies in our individuality and above all, our love for life. The young winemakers are getting better and better, so I think the future is bright”. Positive words from one of the wine industry’s trendsetters.
Sharing a couple of quality hours with an inspired winemaker and finding out what makes him or her tick is always a pleasure. In the case of a legend such as Mike Dobrovic it is a real privilege and I would have happily spent more time in his company. Around three however, Mike glanced at his watch and announced, “Sorry, I have to go, have an appointment with a sangoma back at the farm”.
He left me with this parting shot: “We are magical, mystical beings living in a mystical, magical world.” Not another quote from his favourite Rumi, but certainly another heart-felt philosophy of this colourful, entertaining and erudite winemaker who also happens to have a brilliant sense of humour.
MIKE IN A NUTSHELL
Favourite drinking wine?
Sauvignon Blanc in summer and Shiraz in winter.
Why did you become a winemaker?
It’s the only job where I can come home at night and if I do not smell of wine, my wife asks, “AND WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN?”
What do you enjoy most about winemaking?
Watching the vines grow and the creativity of blending.
Favourite pastimes?
Reading psychology, poetry and philosophy.
Most memorable moment?
When I found Small Change, my dog.