Lunch with Miles Mossop of Tokara
Since the high-profile businessman, GT Ferreira, established this impressive winery in 2000, wine lovers have been waiting with bated breath for the release of the first Tokara-branded wines. Now at last, the wait is over …
Ascending the steep Helshoogte Pass on a beautiful day in December, I was once again reminded of the lofty winemaking conditions prevailing in this cool, high-altitude part of the Stellenbosch region. My mission was a lunch date with Tokara’s winemaker, Miles Mossop, and driving through the spectacular countryside, I reflected on the magnificent potential of the Cape Winelands and the resurgence of the South African wine industry since the mid-199Os.
Situated at the crest of Helshoogte Pass, Tokara boasts breathtaking views over the Stellenbosch Valley and False Bay. In fact, everything about this New World wine farm is impressive: from the pristinely kept vineyards to the hi-tech cellar and striking, natural stone buildings.
Tokara is also home to one of the Cape’s most sought-after restaurants and it was here that I had the pleasure of lunching with its talented winemaker, Miles Mossop. Settling in at a table overlooking the farm’s vineyards and olive groves, Miles kindly offered me the choice of wine to accompany our meal. Without hesitation, I selected the recently released Tokara White. Barrel-fermented and matured in oak for six months, this brilliant, cool-climate Sauvignon Blanc set the tone for an animated conversation and a great lunch.
Miles of course, is the son of one of the Cape’s most highly regarded wine personalities, the late Tony Mossop. Miles’ own involvement in the wine industry however, took a bit of a detour: “I originally qualified as a geologist at the University of Stellenbosch, but soon realised that I would rather be a winemaker.” Encouraged by his father, Miles then enrolled for a degree in Oenology and Viticulture, which he obtained in 1998.
While feasting on a truly magnificent Asparagus starter (only one of the many irresistible dishes on chef Etienne Bontheys’ menu) I asked Miles how he landed the plum position as winemaker of Tokara. “I responded to a very low-profile ad in a local newspaper,” explained Miles. “There was no indication of the people or the place involved, but I just had a gut feel that this was for me.” According to Miles there were only two applicants, “and I was the lucky one”.
Over the main course - Seared Tuna for Miles, and the sensational Kingklip Fillet for me - I asked the crucial question: “Tokara’s first wines, bottled under the “Zondernaam” label, were an immediate success. Why did it take five years before the first Tokara-branded wines were released?”
Miles’ reply summed up the Tokara values: “From the outset, our goal has been to create wines that could rival the world’s best. It was only towards the end of 2005 that we felt that we had achieved this objective”.
Tokara’s four flagship wines include a 2004 White, a 2003 Red, a 2004 Chardonnay and a 2005 Sauvignon Blanc. And judging from the enthusiastic reception, among which two 4’/2 star ratings in the latest John Platter Wine Guide, they are indeed gaining world-class status.
MILES IN A NUTSHELL
FAVOURITE WHITE WINE?
It changes, depending on my mood. At the moment, I have a preference for the more serious, spicy character of South African Chenin Blanc.
FAVOURITE RED WINE?
Cabernet Sauvignon, including Bordeaux blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec.
HIGHLIGHTS IN YOUR WINEMAKING CAREER?
The recognition of GT Ferreira and my cellarmaster, Gyles Webb, on releasing the maiden Tokara-branded wines in August 2005.
WHAT DO YOU ENJOY MOST ABOUT WINEMAKING?
Blending. It is the most difficult aspect, but also the most rewarding.
FAVOURITE PASTIMES/HOBBIES?
My first priority is spending time with my family. Second in line is surfing.